The World Motivation
Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently it's the most difficult thing in the world.
“Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently it's the most difficult thing in the world.”
Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently it's the most difficult thing in the world.
I surf more now for other people than myself. I feel a lot of support from people wanting me to do well, and I feed off that. I can send a positive message to people from what I do.
A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.
I feel like an ambassador for surfing at this point. I'm happy to go and play that role and share that where I can in certain areas of the mainstream media that doesn't get the surfing attention.
Apparently, I am a bit of an exaggerator when I tell stories. But I don't call them lies; I say they are better, funnier truths.
Apparently the show happens even if I'm not there. Who knew?
But I still feel like a normal person... I've walked the streets and I know what it feels like. I speak with humility, and apparently those songs connect with people.
Only blacks can play the race card, apparently; only they think in racial terms, at least to hear white America tell it.
Apparently I had lunch with Johnny Depp when I was three months old.
It's a perfect wave when small and the most beautiful and scary wave on Earth when it's big, as the swell from deep water hits the shallow reef ledge. A ten-foot high wave and a 30-footer break in the same depth of water.